Solar Garden Lights For Inexpensive Lighting

By Barbara Volkov
Using solar garden lights in remote areas of your backyard garden is a wonderful way to shed light to those areas without the use of electricity. Solar garden lights are inexpensive and simple to install; they just need to be placed in areas that receive ample sunlight during the day. Solar lighting can be used in many different ways such as accent lighting, path lighting and spotlighting.
Solar yard lights need to be accessible to the sun during day-time hours to absorb the energy from the sun in order to light-up during the evening hours. Before you actually install the solar lights place them in the areas you would like to have lit up and place them equal distance apart but make sure those areas get enough sunlight during the day. Most solar lights will need approximately 8 hours of sun; some may need more in order to give off light during the night.
There are a number of motives for utilizing solar-powered lights in the garden: because they do not use electricity but the sun's energy they are considered environmentally friendly; they are simple to install since you will not need to dig ruts for wiring because they do have any; they are easily moved from one spot to another; they are less expensive than any other type of lighting; the upkeep is almost non-existent except to replace a rechargeable battery every so often; the LED bulbs rarely burn out; they add beauty and highlights to your garden during the evening hours; and they you have more of an opportunity to spend time in your garden during spring and summer.
Installing solar patio lights is one way to change the appearance of your landscape, yard, or garden. Because they are inexpensive and easy to install they can give you an array of ways to use them. These garden lights are available in numerous shapes and sizes and some have the ability to change light colors. These lights give you a way to highlight outdoor decorations, lounge areas, or dining areas. When solar lights first emerged on the scene they came mounted on stakes and most people used them for path lighting. Now you can find them for hanging on tall poles that look like lanterns to light up a pathway, they can also be mounted on walls, railings, or inserted into a deck for safety. The lights on tall poles will lead your guests across a grassy area of your garden without stumbling into something on their way to an outdoor living area.
Solar spotlights are much brighter than accent lights or pathway lights. They are mostly used to highlight an outdoor decoration, an unusual landscape or a prize-winning flower garden. Many spotlights are available with the solar panel attached to the light with a wire; this allows you to place the spotlight on a particular area to highlight and place the solar panel where it will receive the direct sunlight. There are other types of spotlights that are specifically designed to be security lights; these are classified as motion sensor lights, they only light up if movement is detected.
The holidays are coming and Halloween is the first. Solar lighting is so popular now that solar string lighting and solar tube lighting is now available for holiday decorating. Some stand along outdoor displays for the yard have gone to solar power. Since these lights are now solar-powered your electricity bill will be a lot lower during the holidays. Many of us have tube lighting and string lighting in the backyard all year but they use electricity and now since they have gone solar we do not need to worry about wasting electricity because we will not be using it.
Solar lights are made of the same materials as most traditional fixtures which make them quite durable; some consist of resistant plastic and others are made of aluminum, copper, or bronze. They come in many different sizes and shapes, are quick to install and easy to move around. Solar garden lights do not cost a penny to operate since they get their power from the sun.

Barbara is using solar garden lights in her backyard garden and finds her garden enchanting. Her website Gardeners Garden Supplies has several articles regarding garden decorations and outdoor lighting.

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The Garden Design Process

By Duncan Heather
I would like to put together an argument that demonstrates more can be made of the preliminary research documents, when it comes to winning design contracts and selling schemes to clients.
When first being taught to allocate space, the landscape student is guided through several different processes before they reach a final design solution.
It all starts with an accurate topographical land survey. A plan of the site is then drawn up to scale, to include boundary walls, existing buildings, trees, services and existing levels.
Having gathered this information on a local scale, the student should then expand their area of study to the surrounding landscape. Topographical, historical cultural and architectural information can be gathered from maps and the internet, which helps put the site into context and may suggest a theme on which to hang their eventual design.
Shadow plans are then calculated to assess the impact of spring and summer shade patterns and a sight Analysis plan developed to note the influencing factors of the site such as existing features, wind direction good and bad views etc.
Once all this information has been compiled, the student can start to experiment with space allocation in the form of bubble or functional diagrams.
All this work is a prerequisite to the creation of the presentation or master plan.
But what happens to all this research once the presentation plans are completed?
What many student fail to appreciate, is the difficulty many clients have in understanding the 2D plan drawings.
While we take it for granted that the 'house' is the big black rectangle in the middle of the drawing, it's surprising how few clients realise this. You can be waxing lyrical about how great their new garden is going to be, while showing them the plan and they simply can't make head nor tail of it!
There are 4 preliminary design stages and these can either be presented on separate sheets, or combined into one or 2 presentation drawings. These allow the designer to start their presentation, by going through the site survey and point out the house and the important features of the garden. This allows the client time to digest the plan and to familiarise themselves with the graphical nature of the drawings.
Next you can start to explain how they started to develop their ideas, by running through the site analysis plan and the bubble/functional diagrams.
Explaining the thought process to your clients helps you justify why you have arrive at a particular design solution, but also it help the client to understand how much work goes into the preparation of a landscape plan.
When you are charging several $1000 for an outline proposal arriving with just one sheet of paper can give the client the impression that they are not getting value for money.
Remember! you only get one crack of the whip at presenting your ideas, so you need to make that 'sale' in no more than about 60 minutes, otherwise you won't get the rest of your design fee and more importantly the garden will never be built.
Arriving with 2-3 sheets of research drawings plus the garden plan, plus any coloured perspective and a mood board, suddenly starts to look like a lot of work and thought has gone into the design.
So if you want to improve your sales and get more of your gardens build spend a little extra time 'prettying-up' your research drawings and use them as part of your presentation.

Duncan Heather is one of Europe's foremost garden designers, to-date having won five gold, one silver & one bronze medal and three best of show awards for his design work. He lives in Oxfordshire where he both lectures and works. Born in Britain, he travels extensively and undertakes a very wide range of projects around the world, from tiny courtyard gardens to large country estates.
Duncan Heather is director of the Oxford College of Garden Design and MygardenSchool.

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Home Garden Fountains(home and garden)

Fountains can make a great addition to any outdoor space and with the many styles, sizes available to choose from, you are sure to find one that will meet your individual tastes and preferences.
(home and garden)
Garden fountains can be free standing structures, placed on a wall or custom built in to the landscape.

Wall fountains can be placed in a garden with limited space to achieve the same soothing sounds of a larger fountain.

Choosing An Outdoor Fountain For Your Garden

Important things that you need to think about is whether you want a stone or masonry or a plastic fountain.
(home and garden)
If your looking for a fountain that will last a long time consider choosing a stone or masonry fountain as opposed to a plastic one. The masonry fountains will last for many years but they will also be more expensive.

Once you have selected the material you want your fountain to be made of, you need to consider the size. Be aware that masonry garden fountains are very heavy, so if weight is an issue in installing your fountain choose the lighter plastic.

On larger fountain you may need to consider the cost of a plumber to install the pipes needed to circulate the water through the fountain. Electricity will also be needed to power the circulating pump for your fountain.

Many fountains have the option of using solar energy to power the pump. One disadvantage of going solar is that on cloudy days and at night the pump will not work.

Be sure that the type of fountain you choose compliments the flowers, plants and landscaping you have in your garden.
(home and garden)
For more information on home garden fountains please visit Garden Pros For the latest information on home garden products and ideas.

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7 Garden Decor Tips(home and garden)

Your garden is your own little oasis. Your retreat from the rest of the world. Naturally, you'll want to add your own touches to your garden, to set it apart from everyone else's. You'll want to add your own accents to make your garden truly your own. Here are 7 ideas for little touches that you can add to your garden, to make it your own personal space.
(home and garden)
1. Wind-Chimes - You can find wind chimes in many styles and materials. You can find copper and metal chimes, clay and ceramic. They may feature random shapes of metal or ceramic, or they may be tubes, tuned to certain pitches. So, chances are, you'll be able to find a set of wind chimes that suit your style and your budget. If not, you can easily create your own. Just look around at some of the wind chimes that are available, to give yourself an idea on how they are made.

When you place your wind chimes, look for a place with a slight breeze. Outside, you shouldn't have much trouble finding such a place. Hang the chimes so they'll blow gently in the breeze, creating a relaxing chime. Just don't put them in too strong a breeze, or the relaxing chiming sound will become a harsh, clanging noise.

2. Lighting - Several lighting options are available for your garden or patio. You can use candles for a soft, flickering light, or a string of electric lanterns for a more steady light. If you don't have an outlet available, you can find solar lights, which soak up sunlight during the day, storing the electricity, and then come on at night when the sun goes down. You may want to include a citronella candle or torch in your lighting to keep mosquitoes away.

3. Garden Furniture - These days, you can find a wide selection of outdoor furniture for your garden. I'm not talking about those uncomfortable, aluminum framed, nylon webbed, camping chairs, that trap you as soon as you sit down. You can find comfortable, cushioned chairs and couches, suitable for outdoor use. A hammock strung between a pair of trees can provide a relaxing place to take a bit of a nap on those hot summer afternoons. Several styles of benches are also available to accent the garden, and provide a place to sit and rest under the lilac bushes.

4. Fake Flowers - If you have a spot in your garden where you just can't seem to grow anything, a container of silk flowers can certainly brighten up the area. You may also put in some small planters on the wall or fence, with trouble-free fake flowers.
(home and garden)
5. Containers - You can plant flowers in a container, or vegetables and herbs, or you can build a small water garden to show off water lilies and other aquatic plants. A well placed container garden will add a touch of color and texture to a bare corner of your garden or patio. You can re-plant the containers every season to provide some continual color to your garden, year round, and if you don't like the placement of the container, you can simply move it to a more suitable location.

6. Water Features - A water feature can range from a simple container with some water and a few plants up to a large pond, with fish, waterlilies, bridges, and fountains. It all depends on how much time and money you want to spend in creating it, and how much space you have available. Even a small container with a fountain can add the soothing sound of water to your garden, without taking over a lot of space.

7. Rock Gardens - Rock gardens, like container gardens, can provide color throughout the year, if you plan it well. When plants from one season are done blooming, you can remove them, and replace them with others. A rock garden will take a bit of work to build, especially moving the rocks. Make sure that all parts of the garden are accessible for weeding and watering. Try out different rocks and plants until you find a combination that you like.

These are just some ideas for accenting your garden, and making it your own personal space. Sprucing up your garden doesn't have to take a lot of time, or cost a lot of money. You can build a water feature or rock garden, or you can simply add a few inexpensive decor pieces throughout your garden. Either way, you need to make an effort to set your garden apart from everyone else's. You need to take action to make your garden your own.
(home and garden)
Visit Garden Style Decor for more garden decor tips and resources.

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How To Plant A GArden by Eudora DeWynter(Home and garden)

How To Plant A GArden(Home and garden)
Before you start planting a garden make sure you have well prepared the soil. By this I mean have you loosened the soil by hand or with a tiller to allow for the aeration? Have you softened your soil with fertilizers and new topsoil? Most gardens should be lightly tilled in the spring before planting to kill weeds and smooth the soil. Correctly tilling the soil will enhance the absorption of water. Remember also that nitrogen is an important critical nutrient to plant growth so give it time to settle into the soil. Too much nitrogen will make for more vines that fruit on plants such as tomatoes or potatoes. Once you have readied the soil, its time to begin planting. Since you have had all winter to lay out your design and spring has nearly arrived, digging and planting are close at hand. Let's say that we are novice gardeners and are planting for the first time, have a relatively large space and don't know a petunia from a begonia, or an annual from a perennial. First thing an annual (you must plant every year, but they bloom almost all summer) and a perennial (comes back year after year, but has a shorter booming span). Then pick your plants, and try and pick plants that are well suited to your climate and soil region. Know how much sunlight you will be getting in the spot that you have picked out. Annuals such as marigolds, zinnias and impatiens are fairly easy to grow. If you live in a region where late frost is common, don't plant anything until this danger has passed. A simple solution is to start your seedling plants indoors from seed using containers or flats that are designed for indoor planting and the use of a sunny windowsill or an artificial growing light will work wonders. Always make sure your seedlings are kept moist but not wet, never allowing them to dry out. Water every other day or so while they are small then cut back as they grow bigger. If you start with seeds indoors simply follow the packet instructions and when the weather is right transplant outside to fresh air and sunshine. After plants have been transplanted outside continue to water every other day and add mulch around them (when they are large enough) this will cut down on weeds and hold in the moisture from watering. Keep the weeds pulled before they get to big (by hand is best) and if you fertilize with a liquid, fertilize every other month and if with a dry fertilizer use again about half way through the growing season. Always if possible water in the morning when there is less evaporation from the heat of the day. Below is a list of some of my spring, summer and fall favorites.

Snapdragons - Beautiful array of colors from early summer until late fall
(Home and garden)
Daylilies - wide varieties, blooms only last a few days but hybrids bloom all summer

Marigolds- easy to grow and come in a variety of shades, bloom summer through fall

Impatiens- tiny cute flowering plant, but doesn't like very hot weather

Pansies- beautiful in all sorts of colors, grows better in cooler weather, velvet feel with black centers

Rose Moss- does well in hot climates, an array of colors and an excellent ground cover

Begonias- beautiful, but sensitive, not heat tolerant

Forsythia- beautiful flowering yellow bush that lets you know that spring has arrived

Petunia - an array of colors, heat tolerant and easy to grow, just right for a novice

Nicotiana - Multiplies and comes back years after year, has a smell that will attract Hummingbirds for miles white, yellow or purple

Gladiola - a garden favorite in mid and late summer

Crape Myrtle - beautiful pink flowering bush which is a late spring early summer favorite

The pride of my own garden;

Bougainvilleas, - climbing woody ornamental plant with red, purple or pink leaves and tiny white flowers

Camellias - glossy evergreen leaves with rose shaped flowers
(Home and garden)
Rose - every color, every smell, the very sight is sheer joy

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Vegetable Gardening on Hard Clay

Vegetable Gardening on Hard Clay
Vegetable gardening can be one of the most rewarding experiences in life. Eating your own fresh vegetables picked straight off the plant or fresh from the ground with the real taste still intact beats store brought produce every time.

I grew up in Auckland, New Zealand and gardening on the slopes of One Tree Hill, an extinct volcano, with perfect dark volcanic soil, it was merely a matter of chucking some seeds onto the ground, raking it over with soil and coming back and harvesting the bounty. With very regular rainfall there was little need to irrigate, abit of pest control to keep down the snails and abit of weeding was about it.

What a shock to come to the Gold Coast, Queensland and attempt to create a vegetable garden here. The soil is poor and solid clay with a rock not far below with little or no top soil.

Clay is one of the most difficult mediums to grow plants in. The particular mix is so fine that oxygen and water have a hard time getting to the roots of any plant. Hard as concrete in the dry and waterlogged in the rainy season. Without special preparation you will be lucky to even get weeds to grow.

As you can see in the picture above success can be achieved but work is required.

To prepare the garden a maddock was used to break up the clay into smaller pieces. It is actually better to do this when the clay is dry, rather than waterlogged. Its just heavier when wet and sticks to the maddock. This is time consuming back breaking work. But take a small patch at a time and come back after a rest. Take several days to complete the vegetable patch, gardening is to help build the muscles, not destroy them. Whilst doing this task many times rock was hit, however most rock on the Gold Coast shatters when hit and breaks into smaller pieces. While many of these were removed pieces smaller than half the size of your fist were left in on the advice of garden manuals. Why? It is said that small rocks help drainage and add minerals to the soil over time. So long as the don't make up more than 5%-10% of the soil, leave them in. Eventually a base of the patch was layed out.

To further soften and break up the clay store brought clay breakers were added. Easily available at your gardening or hardware store they are added to water and sprayed on the garden though they work best over a period of time.

Next Gypsum was added. This comes in large bags and is easy to spread out by hand, mix in with the clay and it too will further help 'relax' the clay.

Some would say, why not just buy a bunch of topsoil and dump it down. Well for a couple of reasons, firstly I have yet to find a good provider of topsoil in Queensland. Most just provide sand with a minimum of organic material mixed in - just enough to darken the sand. The sand is actually poor draining because it is much too fine. Some argue that you can help clay soil by adding sand. But unless the sand is a fine to small gravel I believe you are wasting your time. Sand that is too fine, acts just like a clay soil, it repells short spells of rain or irrigation or becomes waterlogged during a tropical downpoor or solid irrigation. The second reaason why I don't just buy the topsoil is because if the topsoil is not mixed in and bound to the subsoil it will just wash away.

To really bring the clay soil up to grade you need to add bio matter. Quality top soil is made of plant and animal materials decomposed or in the state of decomposing. Compost made of of shredded leaves, wood, grass clippings and vegetable/food rubbish is good. But the best material I had available for this garden was straw and chicken waste. With a pen of twenty chickens plenty of nitrogen rich matter was produced. Every three months the coup was cleaned out, the straw smelling strongly of ammonia. However once put on the garden the smell quickly went and the straw and its 'added' contents quickly broke down into the soil. I can reccommend nothing better to add to the soil. If you must add something else to quickly create a topsoil and can't wait for compost or have no chickens then I recommend products such as worm castings or 6 in one products (includes blood and bone, fish compost, etc), they come in 20kg plus bags and range in price between 5 and 15. Several of these, or if your budget handles it 10-20 of these really help to condition the soil.

Now the garden is ready for sowing. In the garden pictured above sweet corn, snow peas, peas, beans, garlic, tomatoes, pumpkins, potatoes, beatroot, lettuce, cabbage and much more were grown in such abundance it meet our needs. A small vege patch with good soil, well planned can add to massively to your diet.

Unfortunately this garden no longer exists as we moved on from my parents lifestyle block. But as testament to the quality of the soil and the work put into it this small area needed mowing twice as much as the rest of the lawn with quality, healthy, green grass growing quicker with more water in the soil than the rest of the lawn. Showing the truth in Queensland and hard clay soils that if the effort is put in the results will live on for years and decades. Poor soil in Australia is just an excuse for laziness. Yes with have drought conditions at times. But if we prepare the soil well we need less water. If we work with our environment, keeping back water in the times of plenty and molding the environment correctly wonderful results can be achieved.

Poor soil should not hold you back, it merely presents a challenge.

For full blog go to http://www.gardening-on.blogspot.com

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Flowers that go with our Roses

By Carole Nixon

There are many flowers that go with our roses. To start with the dwarfs, for spring we can have Snowdrops, Muscari or Grape Hyacinths, winter Aconite, small Narcissus, and Scilla, or the dainty blue and white Chionodoxa. All do well underneath the branches of the rose trees.
Flowers such as Forget-me-nots, spring Anemones, young Wallflowers, Aubrietia,and Violets can be used for planting between the trees. Make sure the Violets and Wallflowers are taken up as soon as they have finished flowering, as they tend to tangle with the roots of the roses. Don't throw them away, separate them or cuttings may be taken. Put out in a shaded place until autumn comes round, then return them to their beds.
Summer friends
More subdued colors must be used for summer. The brown Wood-Sorrel, Oxalis, which is only about two inches high, looks very pretty. The leaves are shaped like a shamrock, but a rich brown, and it displays tiny yellow flowers which only come out when the sun shines on them. It is brought up from seed, and if it is sown one spring there will be no further trouble, as it comes up every year. Don't allow it to get too big, or reach too close to the stems of the roses.
There are a few lowly Campanulas also suited for carpets. If the soft shades are used, Violas and Pansies look happy amongst the roses. They like the same soil, and both, particularly Pansies, do not like a blaze of sun, and for that reason will do very well with the roses.
Saxifrages make a nice carpet, and are great for edgings. S.Caespitosa, S.Hypnoides, and others of the mossy tribe, are very lovely if not allowed to grow too thick. Thrift is another good edging for rose beds. Where the beds or borders abut on a gravel path edging is needed and turf makes the best frame of all.
Annuals
Annuals Shirley and Iceland Poppies, Leptosiphon, Whitlavia, and Godetia are good plants for associating with roses. Care must be taken to see that the color of the annual blends in with that of the roses. The Poppies, shades of yellow and orange, should only be planted amongst cream roses or yellow roses,and the Leptosiphon, being rose pink, only amongst white roses, or those of a similar shade of pink.
Round the standards
The taller Salpiglossis look stunning grouped around the stem of a rose, and are such stylish annuals that they enhance the beauty of flowers overhead.
Coreopsis Tinctoria, which has yellow flowers with brown centers is also very good for this purpose. The Salpiglossis give blooms of several shades if a mixed packet of seed is sown, purple, tawny, terracotta, and many other standard shades. It is a very good idea to buy the seedlings when a few inches high and the outcome is more certain.
Japanese Pinks are pretty, and so easy to grow. Their fringed crimson and white flowers can be cut in quantities without detracting from the appearance of the rose beds, and they keep on blooming right up to the frosts. Statices are much used rather than grasses, their endless tiny flowers are so light and airy, and are produced very abundantly. They grow from eighteen inches to two feet high, and take away from the bare effect of the rose stems very well indeed. Celosias, too, are feathery annuals to be had in different colors. The golden colored variety is the most distinct and has a good effect grouped round some cream standard roses.
These annuals should be treated as half hard. If an early show is desired, frames must be brought into use or the young plants can be bought.
Plants with a greater quantity of foliage and deeper roots can be used, when rose trees are far apart. Columbines are well adapted for grouping with roses, especially when these are growing in shady places. They do not flower for such lengthy periods as the annuals, but their leaves are very fresh, and plants which flower later can be mixed with them.

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Best Pillar Roses

By Carole Nixon

For brightness perhaps nothing equals Paul's Carmine Pillar rose. For a few weeks it is simply a mass of color, and that of a lovely rich pink rose. The flowers, produced the whole length of the shoots, are single and none the less beautiful for that. With its pretty golden stamens and shell-like rose petals, glossy green leaves and picturesque habit, this rose tree is one of the most artistic we have.
Turner's Crimson Rambler, one of the Polyantha roses, is also a first-rate pillar rose. Those who have tried and failed with it on a wall should bring it away, and provide it with plenty of space and a pole, and almost before we can turn round, it has scaled the heights and is looking down on us in blushing triumph. To grow it well plenty of feeding is necessary, though even in a light, poor soil, it will give a great many bunches, but the individual flowers will be smaller, and not so perfect. This is another tree in which artists delight, its habit of growth is so unconventional and free.
Aimee Vibert is a pretty little white rose, each of the under petals being touched with pink in the manner of a daisy. It blooms in clusters, and lasts some time in flower, but when the blossoms die they must be cut off by hand, as, unlike most roses, it does not shed its petals one by one. The whole flower shrivels and turns brown, and the tree naturally is an eyesore until they are removed.
Isaac Pereire, a Bourbon, is a hardy free blooming variety, with deep rose-colored flowers of large size. It blooms abundantly, and is altogether very vigorous, and suitable for a pillar. It is a Hybrid Perpetual.
Gustav Regis, a Hybrid Tea, is a climber, and can be tried as a pillar too, it should indeed be grown in every possible form, so excellent is this delightful rose.
Madame Alfred Carriere, a Noisette, is good as a pillar, and continues in flower much longer than the Hybrid Perpetuals.
The position has a good deal to do with the roses chosen. Teas, Hybrid Teas, and Noisettes should never be put in draughty, exposed situations, but in warm, sunny nooks. Hybrid Perpetuals, Bourbons, Polyantha, and Evergreen Roses do well in colder quarters.
Of the evergreen varieties, Leopoldine d'Orleans is a most vigorous, free-blooming kind. At a distance a mass of it looks like snow, so white are its petals and so profusely are they borne. Unfortunately, it does not last longer than a month in bloom, but it is well worth having nevertheless.
William Allen Richardson is sometimes recommended for pillars, but I scarcely
consider it reliable enough for that position, except in very warm gardens. It is inclined to canker occasionally, and is scarcely quick growing enough to give a good effect soon. Where it does well, and there is patience, it makes a pretty picture, and of course there is no other quite the same rich shade of creamy orange.
Waltham Climber is an easy and effective rose to grow. Though a Hybrid Tea it is quite hardy, and bears sweet scented crimson roses, large and full.

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Beautiful Artificial Bonsai Tree

Author: Robert

Japanese have perfected the technique of growing miniature Artificial
Bonsai trees in containers, but many people all over the world have taken up the Bonsai cultivation as a sort of hobby. Artificial Bonsai trees are generally used for aesthetic purposes and are popular as beautiful showpieces or gifts.
Common types of Artificial Bonsai trees include plum, semi-cascade, bamboo, pine, and azalea. Modern techniques have led to five different styles of Artificial Bonsai trees which include cascade, semi-cascade, slanting, informal upright, as well as formal upright. The braided Bonsai money plant tree is one of the most popular out of devoted bonsai growers. This type of tree consists of a group of four or five trees whose trunks have been braided together. Braided Artificial Bonsai trees can be ten to eighteen inches in height, and is said to bring good fortune by Feng shui practitioners.
Artificial Bonsai trees are usually very small with a height that varies from around two inches all the way up to three feet and the shape of Bonsai trees can be changed by wiring the branches and trunk of the tree. You can place your tree in a nice decorative container that matches your décor because they can live for literally years if you take good care of it.
Maintaining Bonsai isn’t difficult at all. You will need a decent set of tools such as root trimmers, shears, pliers, and branch cutters if necessary. If you are a first timer you can enlist the help of a skilled professional who is willing to teach you the art of training and maintaining Bonsai.
Your plant can be trimmed using bypass pruners and the roots should be trimmed to reduce the size. All Bonsai trees need appropriate amounts of fertilizers to grow nice and healthy. Be careful not to over water you Bonsai tree. Those who are new can begin with a common variety such as azalea, boxwood, hibiscus, camellia, or cotoneaster.

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Article Tags: Artificial Flowers, Artificial Trees, Artificial Plants, Silk Roses

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All About the Bonsai Tree by Marge Snow

When people think of the bonsai tree, they usually think of China and Japan first. While these two countries are most famous for growing and training bonsai, the growing of miniature trees can be traced as far back as ancient Egypt. It's believed that the growing of miniature trees was pioneered by healers as a way to easily transport trees with healing powers for medicinal purposes. However, it soon evolved into an art form and pastime for the wealthy.
The bonsai is not a genetically modified plant or a hybrid tree. Many different trees found in nature can be made into bonsai, and master growers are always looking for new specimens. The bonsai tree is kept miniature by pruning its roots and keeping it in a small pot. The size of the tree is just one aspect of the bonsai. It's shape and style is the real way to tell the difference between a bonsai and just a small potted tree. The bonsai's trunk and branches are shaped sometimes over many years to get the perfect style.
Although you can find lots of different types of bonsai trees, the Juniper in windswept style is probably the most popular. This is where the tree looks like its blowing in the wind. The limbs spread out from the trunk in one direction as opposed to being symmetrical. You'll also see bonsai in the cascade style, where one branch flows down below the pot. Again, the trees don't grow that way by accident. It takes years of patient training and pruning, to achieve the shape.
Many connoisseurs of the bonsai aren't content with a single tree. You might see a group of bonsai trees growing in a single pot. This is called the forest style of display. But it doesn't stop there. Many growers take great pride in designing intricate miniature landscapes with their trees. It could be an indoor display or even a much larger outdoor display in a garden. However a bonsai is displayed, it requires a great deal of care to keep your tree healthy and properly groomed.
If you own a bonsai, you know how hard they are to care for. They need just the right amount of water. A little too much or too little could be fatal. Your best bet is to use a moisture meter when watering. You also need to repot your tree periodically. This is a great time to inspect and prune your trees root system. One thing that kills bonsai faster than anything else is getting root bound. You need to care for your tree above ground and below.
If you don't already have a bonsai tree, but want one, my best advice is to find a nursery specializing in bonsai. This can be hard to do, but take to the Internet, and look for one around your area. There you'll be able to talk to a bonsai master who can give you plenty of advice on caring for your tree. He can also help you select the tree that's right for you and the amount of time you have to devote to caring for it. Its good to develop a relationship with a bonsai master just like you would with a car mechanic if you want your tree to last for years to come. Copyright 2007 Marge Snow
About the Author
About the Author: Marge is a crafter of many years. Along with crafting, she enjoys working in her garden. In her spare time she's an active contributor to Her Arts & Crafts Website ( http://www.myartsandcrafts.com ).